There are only a few instances in the ancient historical record concerning cherry trees. This absence in the record perhaps resulted in the fragile nature and perishability of the fruit, unlike the fruit from the apple tree. There are strong suggestions that the cherry tree originated in the territories of Asia Minor near the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea. Other suggestions that the cherry trees were used in the Greek and Roman cultures come from literary historians, and it appears that cherry wood from the trees of cherry was important in many professional applications for the ancients.
Among the fruit seeds that were sent in 1628 to the settlement at Plymouth, Massachusetts, by the Massachusetts bay Colony were cherry, peach , plum, filbert, apple, quince, and pomegranate and "according to accounts, they sprung up and flourished."
William Bartram found bird cherry, Prunus padus, growing near Augusta, Georgia in 1773 as reported in his book, Travels, when he was taking an inventory of plants growing in the South after the Spaniards abandoned and ceded the land to the English.
Luther Burbank, two centuries later, believed that the bird cherry should be incorporated into the parentage of future cherry hybrids, because it was the most cold hardy cherry known; with its heavy bearing characteristics and its immunity to most insect and disease problems of the cherry trees already in commercial pipelines, it was the hardiest cherry tree yet.
In 1847, Henderson Lewelling brought to Oregon in a covered wagon "cherry trees, apples, pear, plum, and quince."
Luther Burbank, in his extensive book, Fruit Improvement in 1922, combined characteristics from the Sand cherry tree, Prunus besseyi, with the American plum, Prunus chickasaw, and the Japanese plum, Prunus triflora, that ripened in California around mid-August. Burbank described the fruit as deep crimson in color, transparent flesh, rich sweet flavor, juicy and firm with a strong resemblance of the parental form of the American plum, Prunus chickasaw. This cherry-plum hybrid was able to withstand the cold and rigorous climatic conditions, even to the Dakotas.
Professor N.E. Hansen of the South Dakota Experiment Station developed and improved the Sand cherry, Prunus besseyi, that was marketed as the "Improved Dwarf Rocky Mountain Cherry," with fruit growing as large as the Richmond cherry. Luther Burbank argued in his 1922 book, Fruit Improvement page 149, that this Sand cherry tree was more truly a plum tree.
Cherries are usually marketed with the stem still attached to the fruit. When canned or preserved, the stems are customarily removed from the cherry. Hybridizers such as Luther Burbank concentrated on improving several characteristics that were important in marketing the fruit: the size, color, flavor, and sweetness. Burbank produced one cultivar so rich in sugar and it hung on the tree, instead of the rapid decay, after ripening on the tree as experienced with most cherry cultivars.
Cold hardiness was considered to be very important in cherry tree hybridization and Burbank used the bird cherry, Prunus pennsylvanica, that had withstood temperatures of negative 60 degrees Fahrenheit near Hudson Bay as one parent of the cherry hybrid, since it was considered to be the most cold hardy of all cherry trees. In considering the many disease and insect problems that cherries experienced, Burbank suggested that hybridizers concentrate on breeding immunity genes into cherries to bypass "spraying and gassing." Burbank is greatly admired for his strong environmental stand by modern day conservationists.
The common wild black cherry, Prunus serotina, is found growing in most of Eastern North America. The small cherries are grown in great abundance and are reliably produced in large crops, even in the coldest regions of the United States. There are efforts to hybridize the desirable genes of this cherry into existing clones of commercial cherry cultivars. The problem with this native cherry tree is that all parts of the tree and fruit contain the deadly toxin cyanogens, which have caused death and illness to children from cyanide poisoning in the fruit, even though birds don't appear to be affected from eating the fruit.
Cherry trees in orchard situations grow 10 to 15 feet tall to manage the fruit harvesting properly, even though the can grow to 30 feet if not pruned. Cherry trees are very cold hardy down to negative 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and require approximately one thousand or more chill hours for an abundant fruit set. Pollination is not a great problem with cherry tree production. Rootstock selection for cherry trees is "Mazzard," Prunus mahaleb, or "Gisela" or the recent Geissen, German rootstocks.
The principal cherry commercial fruits grown in the United States are the sour cherries, Prunus cerasus L., that make up 99% of all production. These cherries are important in baking cherry pies and cherry tarts, as well as in frozen fruit packs or in canning.
The most famous sour cherry is the "Maraschino" cherry that is used in cherry pies, cakes, juices, jams, jellies, mixed drinks, ice cream, and a host of other ways. This cherry is bright red in color and commonly seen on grocery store shelves in clear glass jars and bottles.
Sweet cherry cultivars, Prunus avium L., are increasingly in demand and sold at U.S. markets. Bing cherries are well known as a fresh fruit item. This cherry is dark purple-red and is firm and has excellent shipping qualities. Other important sweet cherries are 'Napoleon' and 'Ranier,' a USDA release that is bright red with yellow undertones in the background. The Lambert cherry is good to use in canning as is the Stella. The Black Tartarian cherry is a sweet cherry commonly available from mailorder and internet catalogs.
Cherries are rated high in antioxidant levels that offer great health benefits such as treating Gout. Many internet sites promote fresh cherry consumption as being the miracle cure and fast recovery from attacks of Gout. Some internet sites offer concentrated cherry extracts and powders of dried cherries as a cure. Cherries offer other health benefits in their high content of Vitamin A, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin C, Niacin, and the minerals Calcium, Phosphorus, Iron, and Potassium.
Japanese flowering cherry trees are the most widely adapted and popular flowering tree growing in the United States today. The multi-colored flowers of Yoshino cherry, Prunux x yodoensis, and Kwanzan cherry are seen early in the season, and the buds open into clusters of abundant, long lasting flowers that dominate the landscape of our nation's capitol , Washington, D.C. Japanese flowering cherry trees Prunus serrulata 'Kwanzan' were planted in Washington D.C. as a gift of the Japanese people to American citizens, largely through the efforts of President Taft's wife, the first lady. Thousands of these Japanese cherry trees were planted, and many tourists flock to the Capitol in the spring to experience that flowering extravaganza. Cherry blossom festivals, celebrations, and get-togethers are held yearly in cities throughout the country, when cherry trees are in flower to crown "Cherry Queens" and to schedule beauty pageants.
The most popular Japanese flowering cherry trees are Prunus serrulata 'Kwanzan'; Akebono Cherry, Prunus x yedoensis 'Akebono'; Weeping Japenese Cherry, Prunus subhirtella var. pendula; Takesimensis cherry, Prunus takesimensis; Usuzeumi Cherry, Prunus spachiana f. ascendens; Autumn Flowering Cherry, Prunus subhirtella var. autumnalis; Sargent Cherry, Prunus sargentii; Fugenzo Cherry, Prunus serrulata 'Fugenzo' and Okame Cherry, Prunus 'Okame'.
Copyright 2006 Patrick Malcolm
Learn more about various trees by visiting the author's website: http://www.tytyga.com
Article Source: http://www.EzineArticles.com/?expert=Patrick_Malcolm
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Monday, July 12, 2010
Growing Apples for Great Wine
There are countless varieties of apples in general cultivation in this country and all have their likes and dislikes - yet all the all-round varieties seem to do well almost anywhere.
Like all fruits they like to be treated well and will reward those who remember this. I am concerned with growing apples and other fruits such as plums for wine-making; therefore there seems little point in covering the growing of these fruits in the espalier fashion or as cordons. Apart from the fact that the average home-grower will not want this type of tree, he will want as much fruit as he can get from as little space as he can allow. No one will dispute the quality of fruits grown as cordons, but they are expensive to start with and cannot hope to compete with the bush tree when a lot of fruit is the aim of the grower.
The bush tree is the most suitable for the small garden where the owner wants as much fruit as he can get from a small space and for a minimum of labor.
Deep digging is essential, for it must be remembered that trees, once planted, will remain perhaps the lifetime of the owner.
The roots of apples go a great deal deeper than is generally imagined and provided the right variety for the type of soil is planted, the trees will settle down and fruit well. Unless your garden is in what we call a frost hole - a natural depression in the lie of the land that catches the spring frosts harder than elsewhere and then catches the first rays of the morning sun - you can grow apples without fear of the frosts depriving you of your crops.
Bush apples are usually planted ten to twelve feet apart and are put in before Christmas. Early February is the latest that I would leave this job.
Prepare the soil well in advance and allow it to settle before planting. Six months in advance is not too early to get the first digging done if the soil has never before been broken.
When planting, take out holes a good bit larger than are required to accommodate all the roots without cramping. The depth of the hole will depend on the depth the young tree had been planted before it was delivered to you and this will be clearly marked on the young trunk.
Any roots damaged in transit should be cut off cleanly with a sharp knife.
It is best to drive a stake firmly into the middle of the hole and to tie the tree to this while planting. Spread out the roots, shovel sifted soil over them and firm each layer by treading. Rattle the tree occasionally so that the soil is shaken down between the roots. Plant firmly; insecure planting is the most frequent cause of deaths among young trees. When firmly planted, untie the tree from the stake and bind the trunk with felt or some other material and bind this part to the stake. This will prevent chafing of the bark.
For general purposes it is best not to prune a young tree during the first season after planting, but pruning thereafter is of the greatest importance. Not only does it keep the tree in shape but it prevents overcrowding and ensures regular and heavy fruiting.
In the case of bush apples, each leading shoot - that is the growing tip of each main branch - is cut back by about six inches. The young growths growing off this main branch are laterals; these must not be allowed to become branches otherwise the tree will become overcrowded. These laterals are pruned back to leave four or five buds.
The following precautions should be taken against pests and diseases. Spray during winter with a tar-distillate wash. Spray with a nicotine wash in spring, when the buds begin to open and again a week after the petals have fallen. Fix grease bands to the trunks.
Brian Cook is a freelance writer whose articles on home wine making have appeared in print and on many websites. You can find more of these at: Homemade Wine
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brian_Cook
Like all fruits they like to be treated well and will reward those who remember this. I am concerned with growing apples and other fruits such as plums for wine-making; therefore there seems little point in covering the growing of these fruits in the espalier fashion or as cordons. Apart from the fact that the average home-grower will not want this type of tree, he will want as much fruit as he can get from as little space as he can allow. No one will dispute the quality of fruits grown as cordons, but they are expensive to start with and cannot hope to compete with the bush tree when a lot of fruit is the aim of the grower.
The bush tree is the most suitable for the small garden where the owner wants as much fruit as he can get from a small space and for a minimum of labor.
Deep digging is essential, for it must be remembered that trees, once planted, will remain perhaps the lifetime of the owner.
The roots of apples go a great deal deeper than is generally imagined and provided the right variety for the type of soil is planted, the trees will settle down and fruit well. Unless your garden is in what we call a frost hole - a natural depression in the lie of the land that catches the spring frosts harder than elsewhere and then catches the first rays of the morning sun - you can grow apples without fear of the frosts depriving you of your crops.
Bush apples are usually planted ten to twelve feet apart and are put in before Christmas. Early February is the latest that I would leave this job.
Prepare the soil well in advance and allow it to settle before planting. Six months in advance is not too early to get the first digging done if the soil has never before been broken.
When planting, take out holes a good bit larger than are required to accommodate all the roots without cramping. The depth of the hole will depend on the depth the young tree had been planted before it was delivered to you and this will be clearly marked on the young trunk.
Any roots damaged in transit should be cut off cleanly with a sharp knife.
It is best to drive a stake firmly into the middle of the hole and to tie the tree to this while planting. Spread out the roots, shovel sifted soil over them and firm each layer by treading. Rattle the tree occasionally so that the soil is shaken down between the roots. Plant firmly; insecure planting is the most frequent cause of deaths among young trees. When firmly planted, untie the tree from the stake and bind the trunk with felt or some other material and bind this part to the stake. This will prevent chafing of the bark.
For general purposes it is best not to prune a young tree during the first season after planting, but pruning thereafter is of the greatest importance. Not only does it keep the tree in shape but it prevents overcrowding and ensures regular and heavy fruiting.
In the case of bush apples, each leading shoot - that is the growing tip of each main branch - is cut back by about six inches. The young growths growing off this main branch are laterals; these must not be allowed to become branches otherwise the tree will become overcrowded. These laterals are pruned back to leave four or five buds.
The following precautions should be taken against pests and diseases. Spray during winter with a tar-distillate wash. Spray with a nicotine wash in spring, when the buds begin to open and again a week after the petals have fallen. Fix grease bands to the trunks.
Brian Cook is a freelance writer whose articles on home wine making have appeared in print and on many websites. You can find more of these at: Homemade Wine
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brian_Cook
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Organic Gardening - Growing Your Own Backyard Orchard
If you are looking for a new edition that can be exciting and rewarding to your backyard garden, planting a small orchard can be the answer. It can be a great way to improve the appearance of your landscape while producing a fresh crop of fruit for you and your family and friends to enjoy.
Cultivating these sweet and tasty treats in your own orchard isn't that hard to do. Fruit trees, like apples, peaches or pears and other berries like strawberries or blueberries are great choices for a home orchard and can be grown by organic methods that are healthy for you and the environment.
It all starts out with choosing the type of fruit you want to grow. These choices can be for different reasons, it can be either because it is a fruit you enjoy to eat or for landscape reasons. Whatever your choice growing condition in your yard need some thought before you run out and buy your plants. Things like how much room you have, or how big the plant will grow. The type of fruit that will grow best in your particular environment or climate condition and how advanced you are personally with your gardening skills.These are all things that need some thought before you start, it can mean the success or failure of the crop you want to grow.
Success or failure of plants of any type can depend largely on the condition of the plant when purchased, always deal with a reputable source. The health of the plant is very important. When choosing tress, look for signs of healthy, strong limbs with healthy looking buds. When choosing plants that are in containers or bare root, look for a well developed root system. Trees especially when sold in containers, check to see that they were taken care of by looking at the root system to see that they have adequate space and not root bound, stress on many plants from it's early stages of growth can harm the plant.
Once you have decided on what you are going to grow and purchase your plants, the next step is to plant them in there new location, your yard.Proper planting is very important, choose a location that has the required sun light and that the soil condition is best for that plant, soil can be amended by organic methods to fit the plants specific needs.
Another important decision is picking a location that has the proper shelter for the plant. Even though a fruit mature fruit tree can withstand a period of strong winds, it is best to choose a location that can give it some shelter, and not an area that is known to have a constant strong wind pattern.
Now that your location has been chosen, it is time to prepare the hole. It should be at least three time bigger that the plants existing root ball and mix the existing soil from the hole with some well composted organic matter to improve it's soil structure. Once you have the plant in place and back-fill, if a tree it needs to be tied off to a stake for additional support while it's root system has time to get established and kept watered.
Now that you have your fruit trees planted, it is time care for the plant.Watching for signs pest problems and make sure that the plant has an adequate supply of water.
A environment friendly and healthy way of gardening. Organic Gardening is away of gardening in harmony with nature. Growing a healthy and productive crop in a way that is healthier for both you and the environment.
John Yazo
http://www.organicheirloomgardening.com
Article Source: http://www.EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Yazo
Cultivating these sweet and tasty treats in your own orchard isn't that hard to do. Fruit trees, like apples, peaches or pears and other berries like strawberries or blueberries are great choices for a home orchard and can be grown by organic methods that are healthy for you and the environment.
It all starts out with choosing the type of fruit you want to grow. These choices can be for different reasons, it can be either because it is a fruit you enjoy to eat or for landscape reasons. Whatever your choice growing condition in your yard need some thought before you run out and buy your plants. Things like how much room you have, or how big the plant will grow. The type of fruit that will grow best in your particular environment or climate condition and how advanced you are personally with your gardening skills.These are all things that need some thought before you start, it can mean the success or failure of the crop you want to grow.
Success or failure of plants of any type can depend largely on the condition of the plant when purchased, always deal with a reputable source. The health of the plant is very important. When choosing tress, look for signs of healthy, strong limbs with healthy looking buds. When choosing plants that are in containers or bare root, look for a well developed root system. Trees especially when sold in containers, check to see that they were taken care of by looking at the root system to see that they have adequate space and not root bound, stress on many plants from it's early stages of growth can harm the plant.
Once you have decided on what you are going to grow and purchase your plants, the next step is to plant them in there new location, your yard.Proper planting is very important, choose a location that has the required sun light and that the soil condition is best for that plant, soil can be amended by organic methods to fit the plants specific needs.
Another important decision is picking a location that has the proper shelter for the plant. Even though a fruit mature fruit tree can withstand a period of strong winds, it is best to choose a location that can give it some shelter, and not an area that is known to have a constant strong wind pattern.
Now that your location has been chosen, it is time to prepare the hole. It should be at least three time bigger that the plants existing root ball and mix the existing soil from the hole with some well composted organic matter to improve it's soil structure. Once you have the plant in place and back-fill, if a tree it needs to be tied off to a stake for additional support while it's root system has time to get established and kept watered.
Now that you have your fruit trees planted, it is time care for the plant.Watching for signs pest problems and make sure that the plant has an adequate supply of water.
A environment friendly and healthy way of gardening. Organic Gardening is away of gardening in harmony with nature. Growing a healthy and productive crop in a way that is healthier for both you and the environment.
John Yazo
http://www.organicheirloomgardening.com
Article Source: http://www.EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Yazo
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